Cloth Pad Tutorial: Exposed Core, Overcast Edge

This is the first tutorial in a series of three. I’ll be showing you how to sew cloth pads with overcast edges three ways: exposed core, exposed contoured core, hidden contoured core.

We will start with the exposed core pad, the first pad pictured on the left hand side of the screen.

What You’ll Need

The ClothPadBodypdf (print actual size, not fit to page) Approx. 7.25″ wide and 9.75″ long. You can always adjust them to your personal needs. Just don’t sell the pattern.
TheClothPadCorepdf (print actual size, not fit to page) Approx 2.8″ wide and 9″ long. You can always adjust them to your personal needs. Just don’t sell the pattern.
Fabric for the pad body top: flannel, jersey, or any other cotton or absorbent material.
Fabric for the pad body bottom: anti-pill or blizzard fleece. These thicker fleece types naturally repel liquids and make a good water-resistant bottom while providing a non-slip surface against your underwear.
Fabric for the pad core. You want absorbent fabrics for your core. These could include cotton flannel, cotton birdseye, cotton terry cloth, bamboo, hemp, etc. Basically any thirsty fabric will work. Just remember that if you use microfiber or zorb, be sure to sandwich them between fabrics that are safe to be against the skin.
For the pads shown, I have used three layers of bamboo fleece. Bamboo and hemp are good choices if you want a thinner pad as they are thin, but absorbent. 2-3 layers of bamboo or hemp will give you a medium flow absorbency, use more for heavy, postpartum, or overnight.
If you use flannel, 6 layers would be a good medium/heavy flow. You would want to add more for heavier absorbencies.
Sewing machine and notions (thread, needles, scissors, presser feet, etc)
Snaps – metal or plastic. Plastic will be more durable, but metal may be easier to get. I have used KAM snaps here. They are really fantastic quality and the pliers are easy to use. I use a size 20 socket and stud, with size 16 snaps.
Plastic snap pliers can all be found at JoAnn Fabric. I have seen metal snap pliers at Wal-Mart.
If you can’t find snaps, dry cleaners or alteration shops can often apply them. Or you can use velcro or a diaper pin if you have to.

If you have a serger, obviously you can do all this on the serger as well.

Learn more about cloth pads here.

Clicking on the first picture below will make the photos larger so you can scroll through them as you go. Or you can download and print the PDF: ExposedCoreOvercastEdgePadPDF. It is free, I just ask that you don’t sell the pattern. Happy Sewing!

: Start out by cutting your top body piece and your pad core pieces.

: Pin your pad core pieces together. See how trim bamboo is?

: If your core is made up of stretchy fabric(s), use a walking foot. Follow your machine’s instructions for installing it.

: We’re going to sew the pad core together first. You’ll want to use an overcast stitch. On my machine, these are stitches 7 & 8. If you don’t have an overcast stitch on your machine, a zig zag with a short length and wider width will work just fine.

: Place your pinned pad core pieces under the presser foot. You want your fabric right up to the edge so that the left hand stitch catches the fabric and the right hand stitch drops just over the fabric. Back-stitch (or reinforce) and then sew all along the edge.

: See the stitch dropping over the edge?

: Cruising along. Slow down around the curves.

: Back to the beginning. Back stitch (reinforce) again.

: Clip your threads.

: Ta – da! Core pieces sewn together.

: Find the middle of your top body piece by folding in half.

: You can press a center crease with an iron or your finger. As long as you can see it, you’re good.

: Place your pad core pieces on the top of the RIGHT side of the top pad body. Line up the center of the core with your center crease and pin.

: Use the same overcast or zig zag stitch you used for the pad core. You might want to make it just a bit wider.

: We’re going to sew the pad core to the top pad body. Again, you want the left hand stitch to slice into the fabric and the right hand stitch to drop just over. Don’t forget to back stitch!

: Cruising along. Slowly around the curves, back stitch at the end, then clip your threads.

: Ta da! Pad core sewn to pad body.

: For this type of pad, I like to wait and cut my back pad body piece out until I’m ready to attach it. You can cut it out beforehand, but doing it now, you’ll have it perfectly lined up and pinned. Just pick your fabric, pin it down with the wrong sides together, and cut.

: All pinned and ready to sew!

: Pretty thin!

: Use the same overcast or zig zag stitch as before. A small length and a wide width will help prevent fraying.

: This time we are sewing around the outer edge of the pad body to attach the body top and bottom. Again, left hand stitch catching your fabric, right hand dropping just over the edge.

: Back stitch at the beginning, go slow around the curves. Don’t forget to take your pins out as you go so you don’t sew over them.

: Back stitch at the end and clip your threads.

: Ta da! Pad is almost done.

: Now you’re ready to attach your snaps. You’ll need two caps, one socket, and one stud.

: First we’re going to attach the stud. I like the stud to face away from my body so I put it on the top body wing. Pierce the center of the wing in the center. Here I am piercing the fabric with a sharp awl.

: Put one cap through the hole, going through the bottom of the pad.

: Place your stud on top of the cap.

: Press with your snap pliers or press using the manufacturers specifications for attaching a snap.

: Stud snap attached!

: Lay the pad face down on your sewing table. Fold the wings over as they would be when snapped onto your underwear with the stud on the bottom. Place the non-snapped wing over the stud so you can make your hole for the new snap in the spot where you feel the stud.