I love a fun cotton print. Pair that with a piece of clothing that is versatile and I’m sold. I originally made this skirt last spring as a flowy skirt with an elastic waist band. It wasn’t very fitted and was one of my first forays into sewing clothing for myself instead of children. It was cute, but it rarely got worn because it just wasn’t the most flattering thing in my closet. The last couple of months I’ve taken an interest in altering and fitting clothing. I had a closet full of items that were too big and slowly but surely I started working my way through them all. With Valentine’s Day around the corner, this skirt kept calling to me. I pulled it out, put it on Amelia (my dress form) and got to work.
First I took in a bit on each side and added a zipper. Then I started draping and pinning. I tried a few configurations but ended up with the finished skirt you see here. It was really fun to take this skirt from shapeless to a fitted, fun piece of clothing that will get a lot of rotation in my wardrobe. The little details like the peek-a-boo blue invisible zipper and the adorable blue heart snap made it all the more fun. And, I think this print is perfect for Valentine’s Day, don’t you?
Welcome back again! This is the third and final tutorial in a series of three showing you how to sew cloth pads with overcast edges three ways: exposed core, exposed contoured core, hidden contoured core.
Today we will sew the hidden contoured core pad, the third pad pictured on the left hand side of the screen.
What You’ll Need
- The HiddenContouredCoreOvercastEdge pdf. Download by clicking the link. Follow along on your computer, or print out. Please do NOT sell the pattern. I have provided it free of charge to help mamas who want to try mama cloth but cannot afford it.
- Fabric for the pad body top: flannel, jersey, or any other cotton or absorbent material.
- Fabric for the pad body bottom: anti-pill or blizzard fleece. These thicker fleece types naturally repel liquids and make a good water-resistant bottom while providing a non-slip surface against your underwear.
- Fabric for the pad core. You want absorbent fabrics for your core. These could include cotton flannel, cotton birdseye, cotton terry cloth, bamboo, hemp, etc. Basically any thirsty fabric will work. Just remember that if you use microfiber or zorb, be sure to sandwich them between fabrics that are safe to be against the skin.
For the pads shown, I have used three layers of bamboo fleece. Bamboo and hemp are good choices if you want a thinner pad as they are thin, but absorbent. 2-3 layers of bamboo or hemp will give you medium flow absorbency; use more for heavy, postpartum, or overnight.
If you use flannel, 6 layers would be a good medium/heavy flow. You would want to add more for heavier absorbencies.
- Sewing machine and notions (thread, needles, scissors, presser feet, etc)
- Snaps – metal or plastic. Plastic will be more durable, but metal may be easier to get. I have used KAM snaps here. They are really fantastic quality and the pliers are easy to use. I use a size 20 socket and stud, with size 16 snaps.
Plastic snap pliers can all be found at JoAnn Fabric. I have seen metal snap pliers at Wal-Mart.
If you can’t find snaps, dry cleaners or alteration shops can often apply them. Or you can use velcro or a diaper pin if you have to.
If you have a serger, obviously you can do all this on the serger as well. Learn more about cloth pads here. Happy sewing!